Opening

• 1993

After spending a week on Amorgós, I embarked a little boat, Skopelitis, to go to Náxos. This little boat passes a chain of small islands, Konfoníssi, Shinoússa, Iráklia and a couple of others, before reaching Náxos (or Amorgós).

This day it was rather windy, so it turned out to be the most jumpy trip for me, this far! I was sitting on second deck, in the open air, but after a while, must of us where all wet, because of the stormy sea. I was wearing my only trousers, which became very watery and salty. But who cares? It's was glad not to become seasick!

• 1994

I've visited Greece twice during 1994, and the second time I was passing Náxos, to reach my main goal Folégandros. I had to spend one and a half days here, which I didn't mind at all, because the beaches are quite amazing!

If you're not the sun-loving type, you still have a lot of reasons to visit Náxos. It's the biggest island in the Cyclades, and there are a lot of things to take a look at (see Around the island).

• 1996

Náxos wasn't in my plans for 1996, but you really never know where you will end up, when you travel from island to island.

I flew from Sweden to Santoríni, and was planning to go to Astípalea, as quickly as possible. At the airport, I called a travel agency to check out the time schedule for ferries. They told me, that I have to wait about three days for next ferry. I wasn't really satisfied with that answer, so I took a taxi to the harbour. At the port office, I was told to go to Náxos, since they had better connection to Astípalea. Later when I arrived to Náxos, I found out that connection to Astípalea was about the same from Santoríni and Náxos. In other word, I have to wait about three days on Náxos.

The "problem" for me, was that I was leaving the Cyclades to go to Astípalea, which belong to the Dodecanese islands. The ferry connection between the different groups of island, are mostly very bad. It's often a better idea, to first go to Athens, and change to another ferry from there.

I wasn't that disappointed to having to stay a couple of days on Náxos. Now I have the possibility to visit the beautiful beaches, Southwest from Náxos town, which I also did!

• 1997

This year I know that I probably will spend some time (hours maybe a day) on Náxos, on my way to the Small Cyclades.

On my way from Sweden to the first island in my plans, I was spending the evening on Náxos, waiting for a ferry to Donoússa. I left my backpack (500 Drs) at little business run by a woman, where I also was able to take a shower (1000 Drs). Her place is located very close to the harbour, just one block away, on the main road leading out of town.

After that I made the mistake to have some dinner in a nice situated tavern, located in an narrow alley. But the service was slow, much to slow, and the food was nothing special! The owner was more interested in talking to good-looking woman than taking care of his guests, especially if you were a man!

Almost two weeks later, on my way to my favourite island, Folégandros, I was spending another day at Náxos, waiting for the ferry at about 01.00 in the "morning". I took the opportunity to visit the nice beach of Pláka, easy accessible by local bus.

The surroundings at Pláka are getting more and more developed, for every year now. I have divergent opinions about that progress. It could be nice with a tavern easy reachable from the beach, but at the same time I love deserted beaches! I suppose I have to go further south, say south of Mikrí Vígla, see section Beaches below.

Map

Náxos town

The main village of Náxos, is a rather busy town, with a lot of visitors, since you find most of the facilities you need here.

There is an old part of the town, which you find, if you move into the back-street's. It has an almost medieval atmosphere. Silent and narrow alleys lead up past crumbling balconies and through low arches to the fortified Kástro. Only two, of the Kástro's original seven towers, remain.

I find it very relaxing, walking around these small alleys, and feel the historical wing-beat, from the old houses and streets.

If you're lucky, you will find a room, in the old part of town, which I have done, several times. It's very convenient, because it's close to most of the taverns, travel offices, the harbour, and the bus station.

Beaches

The beaches of Náxos are excellent, must of them Southwest of town. Actually, the entire coastline consists of beautiful beaches, reachable by bus or kaíki.

I recommend you to pass the first beach, Ágios Geórgios, if you don't like to be packed together with a lot of people.

Take a bus, and go to Agía Ánna, a small fishing and potato-shipping port, with plenty of rooms. Away from the built-up area, the beach here is nudist.

Beyond the headland, there is the five lovely kilometres of Pláka beach, with beautiful white sand. Most visitors here are nudists.

If you go further south, passing Mikrí Vígla headland, you will find about one and a half kilometre of almost deserted stretches of sand. This is the northern part of Katráki beach and in the northern corner of the beach you will find a tavern (see photo at top). This beach invites you to walk by the waterside in the nude and feel the sun and wind caressing your naked skin. Last time I visited this beach during the summer of 1996, I met only one family during my walk on the beach.

The next beach is the southern part of Katráki, also about one and a half kilometre long. In the most southern part, clothing is optional. This both parts of Katráki beach is diveded by some small rocks where also a tavern is situated.

The summer of 1996, I also went to a little beach, Amiti bay, north of the town. It was quite alright, but since it's to the north, there was some garbage in the water.