Opening

I’ve been thinking of visiting Astypálea for several years, and during my travel to Greece in 1996 I’d decided to go for it.

When reading my travel guides for Greece, Astypálea seemed to be a nice choice to me for several reasons:

• Not overcrowded by tourists
• Some nice beaches
• Nice for walking or maybe going by moped
• Marvellous shape of the island when looking on the map; looks like a butterfly. Turn into English Astypálea is butterfly!

I wasn't disappointed when I was approaching Astypálea early one Wednesday morning, with Chora and connected Kástro situated high up on a rock. Beautiful to watch at daybreak!

Map

Where to stay?

According to my travelling guides, it seemed to be a good idea to try to find a room in Skala. After leaving the ferry I was standing at the quay and waiting for someone to approach me and offering a room. After a while a man so did, and was pointing towards a house on the other side of the bay. It seemed to be all right to me but unfortunately we misunderstood each other; I was waiting awhile for a lift, at least for my backpack, but probably I was meant to walk to the house.

Anyway another man approached me and was offering rooms in Livádia, 1,5 km away. I was hesitating, because I still wanted to stay in Skala. Then I was told that he could provide a room for me in Skala, actually his own room where he and his wife stayed out of season. It seemed to be a splendid idea to me, and after talking about the price, I agreed to the offer.

It was a nice room even if the bathroom was across the garden. But the view was splendid. In one direction I was overlooking Chora and Castro (see picture above!), and by turning my head to the left I was looking down on Skala and the port.

Further more it was rather close to shops, bakery and other facilities.

My host Nikolas Kontaratou and his wife Maria, have a pension in Livádia as I mentioned above and I think that staying at their place is a good alternative. I was visiting the place and it seems to be a friendly atmosphere and a natural place to meet other travellers and people living at the pension confirmed this. Call this number on Astypálea if you want further information: 0243-612 69 or 0243-614 60.

Beaches

Perhaps Astypálea isn't known for its beaches, but I think there are some worth mentioning.

To me the nicest beach is Kaminiakia , situated at the west part on the west wing of the island. About 100 metres wide and with nice sand it's a good choice for spending some hours. Unfortunately there is only one tiny tree where one person can get some shadow, but close to the beach there's a tavern, which offer some shadow. This tavern is closed out of season, maybe all season, because the building wasn't specially maintained. Clothing is rather optional, at least of season, and if you set the standard (I did!)

To get there you have two choices:

1. Get someone to take you there by kaíki (usually a small fishing boat). The disadvantage of this is that you arrive way to late to the beach and spend only a few hours at the beach. But of course, if you are made of money, you can hire a boat by your self!
2. Rent a moped and drive on rather bad dirty roads. You have to drive pass Livádia and when you are on a level with Tzanáki beach, you take to the right towards the small village of Armenochori. Before you reach the village you have to turn to the left on another road, that leads to Kaminiakia beach. This last part is rather difficult to drive, because of the bad quality of the road, at least the season of 1996. They where trying to improve the road with a big excavator. Despite the difficulties I prefer this alternative, because you can decide what time you want to get there, and how long you want to stay!

If you like to visit a beach close to houses, you would choose the beach at Livádia. I've never tried it myself, since I prefer some seclusion, but if you keep your swimsuit on it is a nice alternative, with several taverns within close reach. The beach is mostly of sand.

By continue past Livádia, you will find Tzanáki beach, with pebbles and possibility to get shadows close to some rocks. On this beach clothing is very optional. A nice choice if you like to expose all of your skin to the sun and water.

At the end of this road you will find Agios Konstantinos beach, also with pebbles and her you also find shadows under some orchards. There is a tavern situated in connection to the beach, but I doubt that it is in operation, at least not of season. You have a very nice view towards Chora and belonging kástro from this beach. If you reach this beach before anyone else and stay at the end, you can drop your swimsuit.

There are two beaches between Tzanáki and Agios Konstantinos, Moura and Papou, but I am sorry to say that I didn't find any road or path to those beaches. It seems likely that you have to pass some private property to get there. Of course a boat come handy if you want to investigate those beaches, but I can't advise you about the quality of those two beaches.

Not far from Skala, to the north, you will find several beaches close to the road. I never tried them out, because of the road only some metres away.

I've been told about a nice beach situated on the waist of the island, close to the airport. According to Nikolas Kontaratou this is the best beach on the island. I have to try it out someday.

Around the island

One day a decided to take a trip with my motor bike to the farm-monastery of Ágios Ioánnis and the waterfall with pools just bellow the monastery. It's about a two-hour walk in one direction, if you prefer that.

First you follow a dirt road beginning in Skala from the sixth or seventh windmill, then turn left at the fork. After a while you are passing another path going right to the monastery Panagias Flevariotissas. Carry on above Arménochori and the little farming village of Messariá, before turning left at a pass. After a while the terraced orchards of the monastery come into view.

I found it difficult to reach the waterfalls bellow; didn't know exactly where to clime down. But after half an hour of looking around and trying some different alternatives, I managed to get down to the waterfalls and pools bellow. It was very nice and refreshing to take a bath in the pools, in fact I stayed there fore a couple of hours, letting the sun caress my body while laying on a rock.

Where to eat?

I would like to mention one tavern situated close to the harbour, with nice view over the water. The name is Kikis corner, and is run by four young guys from Athens.

The food is excellent as well as the service, and these guys are very friendly, which I appreciate very much!

Every evening they have some speciality with somewhat reduced price, but of course you could choose anything from the menu! I think that fish never is a bad choice in Greece, and certainly not in Astypálea; it's fresh and tastes very nice!

Pictures