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Picture 1.
Digital IXUS with the teleadapter.

I sawed the binoculars into two pieces (two monoculars) in that way I got the right part (with the ocular adjustment) free from the center wheel focusing (picture 2 and 3). Then I made a holder from an L-shaped aluminium profile with the measurement 25x14x2 mm, length 93 mm (picture 6). One can buy the aluminium profile in a well-stocked ironmonger or building shop. A profile of that sort one can sometimes find in the front of every step in a stairs, will also be good. In this profile I drilled a hole with the diameter 6.0 mm and two hole with the diameter 3.0 mm. In that part of the centre bridge who still was equipped with the monocular, I drilled corresponding two hole with the diameter 2.5 mm and threaded this for M3 screws. Here one can  use 3.0 mm hole instead and screws with nuts if the right sort of threading die is not available.

The holder was attached to the monocular with two M3 screws and to the cameras tripod thread (stand thread) with 1/4 inch screw. Here I instead will recommend a riffled 1/4 – 3/8 thread adapter for fastening the monocular to the camera, this can then be done without using a screwdriver. It is very important that the cameras lens can move totally free forward and backward into the monoculars'  eye cup  without touching anything, except the eyecup of thin, soft rubber or plastic. The play around the camera objective and in front of it must be about 0.1 – 0.3 mm when the objective is in its most advanced position.

The little crest who is located on the bottom side of the monocular and which is limiting the freedom of movement (the hinge function) relative the centre-bridge, can be removed with a thin file or a fretsaw. Then one can turn the monocular radial to a desired position.

There are a lot of possibilities for adjustment:

One or more washers can be placed between the aluminium profile and the little, remaining piece of the centre-bridge for horizontal adjustments.
The hinge function on the monocular  is still busy and so we get another horizontal possibility of adjustment (in fact radial).
The two 3 mm holes in the al-profile can be filed oval vertical and will then give us a vertical adjustment.

Normally the centre adjustment is moving the objective axially for adjusting the distance. This I locked in a medium position with a little screw and a washer (picture 9). The dioptrical adjustment, which is moving the ocular axially, is then the only possibility for adjustment of the distance (focusing). Here I will again point out how important it is that the objective of the camera, when it is in its most advanced position, is not touching, or stopped by the ocular of the monocular, when this is in its most advanced position. This will occur at ashort distance when the ocular is turned maximum clockwise. The entire movement axially of the monoculars' ocular at adjustment from min to max is about 2 mm.

The automatic focusing of the camera will not function with this simple tele adapter. One must then adjust the ocular manually for a sharp picture in the display of the camera. The virtual picture which is formed inside the monocular and which the camera "is seeing", must bee distinct, if it ist fogged, the camera can not do it distinct.

Picture 11 is showing all measurements of the aluminium profile who I used and which is made for a Canon Digital IXUS* camera and also to the binoculars  I bought. Binoculars that is so cheap do not have the optical quality who one sometimes will desire in this circumstances. It will not always give a sharp picture or linearity out into the edges. This we can see from picture example 3 where the horizon behind the stone is not in a straight line. The test-pictures will give us an idea of the resolution, but will also show us that the linearity at the edges is not very good. For ordinary family pictures and similar, the arrangement will  however do well. Binoculars of a higher price range will probably have a better optical quality and then give better pictures.

At poor light a camera tripod or stand must be used, or else there is a great risk that the pictures will be blurred. When using this tele adapter, lock the focus of the camera at long distance and adjust the focus of the monocular for a sharp picture at the display.

	Picture 2 The binoculars, data: 8x21, center and ocular adjustments.	Picture 3. The binoculars sawed in two monoculars. .
	Picture 4. The camera and adapter without tripod.	Picture 5. The teleadapter can easely be turned away.
	Picture 6. Two M3-screws is joining the monocular and the al-profile together.	Picture 7. The monocular screwed tight onto the al-profile.
	Picture 8. The hole for adjusting the distance (focus).	Picture 9. A screw with a cut off washer is locking the objectiv-lens.

Ulf Ekström.
* Canon PowerShot S100 Digital Elph = Canon Digital IXUS

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