FUNDULOPANCHAX GARDNERI

I can now say that I am a true killie fan with my first successful rearing of a killifish spawn. These fish are wonderful to keep. They are beautiful as are many killies, and the mature pair I acquired were an albino color form. They were easily sexed, the female lacking the blue and greenish speckles of the male. Otherwise both fish had the typical albino- blond color. These fish demand very little care compared to other tropical fish I keep. No heater was necessary in the tank, and at times the water temperature would drop to the low 60's for extended periods during the winter. The breeders are kept together in a 5 gallon tank that is equipped with a box filter, and when spawning a yarn mop is added. Originally I filled the box filter with a nylon bag of sifted peat moss that was boiled. Filter pads were cut to fit instead of filter floss. Approximately every 2 or 3 weeks I changed 25 percent of the water, and also rinsed the pads. I have yet to change the peat moss in the filter, and after so many water changes, I wonder if the water chemistry is greatly altered. I never checked this, but the water is no longer brown as peat moss will typically color tank water. These fish also ate anything I placed in the tank. At first I conditioned the pair on daphnia and black worms before attempting a spawn. This was not necessary though and they would spawn continuously, a few eggs throughout the day. Every 2 days for a week long period I remove approximately 12 eggs from the mop before removing it until I want to spawn them again. I found the difficult task with killifish is storing the eggs until hatching time.

I tried a variety of methods using butter dishes, plastic shoe boxes, and several medications, but batch after batch spoiled. I stumbled across my successful method by accident when I was giving into my frustrations. At the time (and currently still trying) I was working with the Nothobranchius guentheri killifish, which spawns in soil. These I had just attempted to spawn in a five gallon tank with an inch of peat moss covering the bottom and a foam filter for filtration. The Notho female was beaten up badly by the male, so I left her in the tank with some Acriflavine medication. She subsequently died several days later. It was on this same day I discovered another failed batch of the gardneri eggs (though day for me and my fish). Anyway I threw these along with a fresh batch I had just picked from the mop into the tank with the dead female Notho and quit killifish (at least for a couple of days until I took out the dead female). Not needing the tank I left it alone over the next 20 days.

Using a flashlight I could see that some of the eggs were not spoiling, so I had hope. Infertile eggs or ones that spoil turn white in color, and good eggs remain somewhat clear. Low and behold after 20 days I observed fry and after four more days they become free swimming. Having never done killies before I had to raise the fry for a week or so until I could notice the albino characteristics and know they were not _Nothobranchius_. The fry were raised on live baby brine shrimp and micro worms one feeding of each every day. They appear to be very slow growing fish, and at 2 months of age are only about an inch long. I am surprised that most killifish are only 5 point Breeder Award fish, given the patience needed to wait for the eggs to incubate without spoiling. Maybe once the secret is mastered it is easy?

Currently as I write this I am trying a new hatch method using a gallon jug. An airstone and Methylene Blue was added to the jar, and then the mop is placed directly in it. At least six fry have hatched so far, but that's all I can tell you for now since they are not free swimming yet. I would like to learn more about killifish besides what the books say, since I currently have pair of Nothobranchius guentheri, Aphyosemion australe and striatum. So, if anyone wants to talk killies give me a call or see me at a monthly S.W.M.A.S. meeting. - END Reprinted with permission from SWAM, publication of the Southwestern Michigan Aquarium Society, Volume 12 Number 5, September/October 1990 Issue, pp. 22-23.